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致力于賦能新生代職場(chǎng)人群，成衣品牌 SKYPEOPLE北京店選址三里屯太古里北區(qū)。本案是針對(duì)零售空間“品牌表達(dá)力”的一次探索式回應(yīng)，設(shè)計(jì)立足城市肌理、建筑肌理和服裝肌理的相互塑造，依據(jù)產(chǎn)品“簡(jiǎn)便、實(shí)用、高效、得體”等特點(diǎn)及其背后設(shè)計(jì)理念展開。

Dedicated to empowering young professionals, ready-to-wear brand SKYPEOPLE has opened a new store in Taikoo Li Sanlitun, Beijing. This case is an exploratory response to the subject of incorporating brand identities in retail spaces. The design embodies such notable features of the brand’s products as simplicity, practicality, effi-ciency, and decency as well as their underlying design concepts while acknowledging the mutual influence of urban, architectural, and fashion textures.

▼項(xiàng)目概覽，Overall view ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

基于對(duì)品牌的深入理解，我們?cè)俣人伎挤b于各類城市應(yīng)用場(chǎng)景中所扮演的角色以及服裝本身構(gòu)成，從布局、陳設(shè)、軟裝、色彩策略、燈光設(shè)計(jì)等方面入手，用空間詮釋品牌對(duì)產(chǎn)品城市性能和人文氣質(zhì)的執(zhí)著。正如好的服裝設(shè)計(jì)能讓穿著變得省力、不過時(shí)，我們嘗試打造一個(gè)松弛而能激發(fā)持久審美力的商業(yè)空間。

Based on an in-depth study of the brand, we reconsidered the roles played by outfits in different urban settings and the composition of clothes. Starting with the store’s layout, furnishing, soft decoration, colouring strategy, and lighting design, we let the space itself speak for the brand’s pursuit of urban performance and humanistic temperament. Just as good fashion design makes wearing effortless and timeless, we try to create an elegant commercial space that gives lasting aesthetic pleasure.

▼平面圖，F(xiàn)loor plan ? F.O.G.建筑事務(wù)所

1. 拼貼城市

Collage City

服裝的功能從“遮衣蔽體”、“禮制維護(hù)”、“身份象征”演變至今已涵蓋實(shí)用價(jià)值、文化價(jià)值和個(gè)人審美與立場(chǎng)表達(dá)等多個(gè)維度，服裝的更新迭代因此可以映照一座城市的精神內(nèi)核乃至生長(zhǎng)軌跡，無論是城市場(chǎng)景、需求還是生活方式的多元化發(fā)展，都直接或間接影響著人們對(duì)服裝的看法和預(yù)期。“城市”于是成為設(shè)計(jì)的首個(gè)立足點(diǎn)。

From protection and adornment to maintenance of etiquette, representation of status, and expression of individ-uality, the functions of clothes have expanded from predominantly practical into cultural, aesthetic, and various other dimensions. The evolution of fashion can therefore reflect a city’s core spirit and path of development. The diversification of urban scenes, demands, and lifestyles or any major changes happening in the city all affect people’s perceptions of and anticipations toward fashion. The concept of city has thus become the first foothold of our design.

▼店鋪正面，Storefront ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

我們?cè)O(shè)想將人群在不同視角下所觀察到的城市“切片”融合在同一空間內(nèi)，具體手法是建立不規(guī)則形狀、“隨機(jī)”分布的鏡面幾何體結(jié)構(gòu)，利用反射原理和遮擋物之間的錯(cuò)位，為空間嵌入更豐富的透視關(guān)系，塑造一種將城市切割后重新拼貼起來的視覺效果。

▼“拼貼城市”靈感匯集，Inspirations for “Collage City” ? F.O.G.建筑事務(wù)所

We pictured mixing the different “slices” of a city observed by different crowds from their perspectives in one room. More specifically, we installed irregularly shaped, casually staggered bodies of mirrors throughout the store. A more labyrinthine spatial relationship is resulted from the collective effect of the reflection of and the obstruction of view by these structures, thereby embedding more dynamic perspectives into the space. Ulti-mately, we want to achieve a visual effect of a city being cut into pieces and reconfigured back together.

▼不規(guī)則的鏡面幾何體結(jié)構(gòu)“隨機(jī)”分布于空間，Irregularly shaped, casually staggered bodies of mirrors are installed throughout the store ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

分布在不同高度的“鏡面碎片”互相咬合，以難以預(yù)料的方式扭轉(zhuǎn)人們視線，同時(shí)讓觀察視角更加多元?jiǎng)討B(tài)，空間隨之擁有的不同“表情”疊加碰撞，令人體會(huì)到行走在錯(cuò)綜復(fù)雜的城市網(wǎng)絡(luò)中。

The “mirror fragments” distributed at different heights turn people’s sights in unpredictable ways, providing them with more perspectives of observing the space. The space itself is also given different expressions that overlay while clashing with each other. Passing through them is like walking in an intricate city web.

▼鏡面碎片，Mirror fragments ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

圍繞“視角”生成的一系列設(shè)計(jì)也來自SKYPEOPLE對(duì)職場(chǎng)文化的理解。正如以不同視角觀察同一空間或城市會(huì)獲得新的印象和感知，職場(chǎng)中，切換視角時(shí)常會(huì)幫助我們發(fā)現(xiàn)靈感和更優(yōu)解。

Such design actions centred on “perspective” have also come from SKYPEOPLE’s take on workplace culture. New observation perspectives give us new impressions and perceptions of the city. Likewise, in the workplace, switching perspectives often helps us find inspirations and better solutions.

▼透視關(guān)系，Perspectives ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

2. 懸浮走廊

Floating Corridor

懸掛在空間中央的倒梯形體結(jié)構(gòu)內(nèi)部作為試衣間使用，頂部與天花相接，底部與地面留有20cm縫隙。打破傳統(tǒng)服裝門店布局策略，我們將試衣間從場(chǎng)地邊緣挪至正中，無論是視覺還是主題層面，這一結(jié)構(gòu)都具有決定性意義。

The fitting rooms are situated inside the inverted trapezoid hanging at the centre of the space. Its top adheres to the ceiling, while the bottom is 20 cm elevated from the floor. Contrary to the traditional layout of a clothes shop, we demarginalized the fitting rooms to give it both visual and thematic weights.

▼試衣間，F(xiàn)itting rooms ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

▼試衣間近景，Close-up view ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

利用材料可塑性并仿照羽絨服表面的填充縫合輪廓，我們?yōu)榻Y(jié)構(gòu)打造了視覺上柔軟蓬松、應(yīng)用中耐久易清潔的外部肌理，呼應(yīng)品牌對(duì)服裝面料質(zhì)地和實(shí)用性的雙重考量。結(jié)合空間中的“鏡面碎片”，這一結(jié)構(gòu)也可以被視作摩天大樓的抽象變體，將城市中拔地而起的冰冷的高大建筑柔化成“從天而降”的輕盈溫暖的漂浮形象。

We modelled the structure’s exterior after the typical filling-stitching contour of the surface of down jackets. By virtue of the plasticity of the material, we made its texture look soft and cushiony, which is simultaneously dura-ble and easy to clean in application, echoing the brand’s mindfulness of both fabric texture and practicality. Put in the same context as the mirror fragments are, this structure may also be seen as an abstraction of sky-scrapers. The aloof image of these lofty buildings shooting from the ground is softened into an airy, approacha-ble existence “falling from the sky.”

▼柔軟蓬松的外部肌理，The soft and cushiony exterior texture ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

▼細(xì)節(jié)，Detailed view ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

令人聯(lián)想到降落在鋼筋水泥森林中的“天外來物”，作為空間的視覺焦點(diǎn)，結(jié)構(gòu)自身具有一種穩(wěn)重冷靜的氣場(chǎng)，正切合產(chǎn)品“低噪響”的特征，另一層面，象征了城市里那些允許人們藏匿和安置情緒的私密環(huán)境。

The structure reminds us of a foreign object landing in a concrete jungle. As the visual centre of gravity, it has a calm, steady aura, which is in line with the products’ “l(fā)ow noise” feature. On a symbolic level, it can be seen as a variation of any private environment in the city where people feel safe putting down their emotions.

▼不同角度，Views from different angles ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

3. 冬日公園

Winter Playground

城市空間是場(chǎng)所和事件經(jīng)緯交織的產(chǎn)物，以公園為例，這里活動(dòng)的發(fā)生、人群的交匯孕育住民心中的美好回憶，并賦予場(chǎng)所本身生命力；公園繼而在改善生態(tài)、美化景觀、提升住民生活質(zhì)量等方面發(fā)揮作用，形成促進(jìn)城市正向消長(zhǎng)變化的良性循環(huán)。我們因此將“冬日公園”融入設(shè)定，在室內(nèi)營(yíng)造與“陽光”、“冰雪”、“公園”相關(guān)的場(chǎng)景意象，極度克制的設(shè)計(jì)語匯仍為空間的休閑功能和趣味性留有余地。

Urban spaces are the products of the interlacing of places and events. Take parks as an example, this type of places are vitalized by the occurrence of activities and the convergence of people, all of which eventually be-come the residents’ cherished memories. The parks then play a role in improving ecology, beautifying landscape, and enhancing the residents’ quality of life, thereby setting a virtuous cycle in motion to promote positive changes in the city. With this realization, we incorporated “winter playground” as part of the store’s identity by constructing imageries related to “sunshine,” “ice and snow,” and “parks.” The highly restrained design ap-proach still leaves room for recreational functions and a playful subtone.

▼入口裝置，F(xiàn)ront installation ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

“設(shè)計(jì)是不斷簡(jiǎn)化的過程”，這一理念啟發(fā)我們?cè)谒茉於展珗@意象時(shí)采取相對(duì)抽象的設(shè)計(jì)手法。例如，入口處，90根實(shí)心泡沫和不銹鋼制成的圓柱陣列裝置將白雪覆蓋的樹木提煉為幾何、金屬元素，模擬“雪后樹林”的形態(tài)。和直接使用植物造景相比，這種表達(dá)方式不會(huì)干擾空間基調(diào)，只在因人而異的聯(lián)想中獲得具體形象。

“Design is a process of constantly simplifying.” This concept inspired us to adopt relatively abstract design techniques as we worked toward the imagery of winter playground. Take the front installation as an example, a matrix of 90 columns made of solid foam and stainless steel simulates a forest covered in snow. The image of snow-covered trees is rendered into a fusion of geometric and metallic elements. Compared to using real plants, this method of expression interferes less with the general vibe of the store and is only given definite forms in viewers’ imaginations, which vary from person to person.

▼裝置細(xì)節(jié)，Detailed view of the installation ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

沙發(fā)造型仿照公園長(zhǎng)椅，而改用更舒適的面料。

The couches are shaped like park benches while using more skin-friendly fabrics.

▼休息區(qū)，Lounge ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

回廊式瀏覽動(dòng)線環(huán)繞試衣間展開，營(yíng)造一種“游園”體驗(yàn)；形式不一的金屬質(zhì)展陳道具以空間利用最大化和輕盈美觀為原則，或是嵌入墻體或是用繩索懸吊在天花板上；店內(nèi)并未設(shè)有傳統(tǒng)倉(cāng)庫(kù)和收銀臺(tái)，而是采用更加透明的倉(cāng)儲(chǔ)式展陳，將庫(kù)存收納在防塵袋內(nèi)于店鋪后端展出，緩解庫(kù)存壓力、節(jié)省空間的同時(shí)，讓選購(gòu)過程更加自主、快捷、流暢而具有互動(dòng)樂趣。

The cloister-style browsing path wraps around the fitting rooms, making customers feel like touring a garden. Different forms of metallic display props are set in place in order to maximize space utility while maintaining a casual, decent appearance. They are either embedded in the walls or suspended by ropes from the ceiling. There is no traditional storage room or cash register in the store; instead, we adopted the more transparent warehouse-style display method. The inventory items are stored in dust bags and displayed on racks at the back of the store. This method has the advantages of relieving storage pressure, saving space, and expediating the shopping process, making it more smooth, self-directed, and engaging for the customers.

▼倉(cāng)儲(chǔ)式展陳，Warehouse-style product display ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

▼嵌入展陳墻體的金屬衣架，Metal hangers fixed on the display walls ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

▼衣架細(xì)節(jié)，Detailed view ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

多功能掛鉤：細(xì)部色彩點(diǎn)綴挑染出幾分俏皮的空間氛圍，靈感來自SKYPEOPLE羽絨服領(lǐng)口處標(biāo)志性的跳色設(shè)計(jì)。

Multipurpose Hanger: This slight colorful embellishment brings out a bit of a playful vibe. It is inspired by SKYPEOPLE’s iconic collar design distinguished by a shock of color (normally blue) at the neckline.

▼多功能掛鉤，Multipurpose Hanger ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

▼不銹鋼衣桿造型酷似單杠 ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

Stainless steel display rack shaped like a monkey bar

為避免光斑破壞空間立面的平整性和粗糲感，我們大面積使用軟膜燈光，根據(jù)場(chǎng)地線條特征排布燈光分割方式，并穿插使用燈管，均衡空間整體燈光照度。這種燈光策略讓整個(gè)場(chǎng)地看似被日光漂白過的雪地，通透明亮而趨近隱形。

To avoid flares, which will interrupt the flatness and roughness of the fa?ade, we used a large number of soft film light boxes and pieced them together according to the geometric characteristics of the site. Meanwhile, some light tubes are interspersed to balance the overall lighting intensity. This strategy makes the entire site look like a snowfield bleached by sunlight, appearing bright, clear, and approaching invisible.

▼軟膜燈光，Soft film light boxes ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

▼燈管，Light tubes ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

試衣間內(nèi)部，藍(lán)紫漸變燈光反襯出羽絨的溫度，霧化的色彩從走廊入口漫延而出，在一片亮白中氤氳開來，將空間逐漸激活的同時(shí)營(yíng)造出一種與“太空”、“極地”相關(guān)的科技感氛圍。

In the fitting rooms, gradient blue and purple light sets off the warm-keeping feature of down. The nebulized pigments diffuse like a colourful fog from the floating corridor into an expanse of bright whiteness. While they gradually wake up the space, a futuristic vibe associated with outer space or polar regions is sparked off.

▼試衣間燈光，Lighting in the fitting rooms ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

實(shí)際上，我們有意讓產(chǎn)品的陳列方式和品牌色的局部使用以相對(duì)次要而自然的方式浮出視線，在不破壞空間完整度的情況下?lián)糁幸曈X記憶點(diǎn)。色彩對(duì)比加上陰影的缺席，讓物體看似呈失重狀“漂浮”其中。

In fact, we purposely displayed the products and applied brand colours in ways such that they would surface from people’s views in a relatively subtle, peripheral fashion that is memorable without undermining the visual integrity of the space. The contrast of colours and the absence of shadow make objects appear as if floating in zero gravity.

▼試衣間內(nèi)部，F(xiàn)itting room interior view ? 言隅建筑空間攝影

人們傾向于以自身尺度為基礎(chǔ)建立對(duì)周遭的感知，我們所認(rèn)識(shí)的物理世界是從個(gè)人或群體視角觀察得到的結(jié)果，是局限的、畸變的、千人千面的。對(duì)于這一宏大議題，“拼貼城市”僅作為初步嘗試、一份“潦草”答卷——“透過多種視角捕獲的城市畫片漂浮于寒冷地帶，拼貼成一座光怪陸離的新世界”——我們希望以此激發(fā)人們探索多元視角的愿望，為觀察城市、棲居城市、想象城市提供別外可能。

People are used to observing their surroundings from their own vantage points based on their own systems of measurement. Our perceptions of the physical world are therefore inevitably fragmented, distorted, and variegat-ed. In response to this grand subject, “Collage City” is only a preliminary attempt – a rough draft, so to speak. “Snapshots of the city captured through mixed perspectives floating above the snowfield, collaged into a strange new world” – through this, we hope to stimulate people’s interest in exploring different perspectives and provide alternative ways of observing, inhabiting, and imagining cities.

▼店鋪外觀，Storefront ? 言隅建筑空間攝影